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Thread: Ken Erickson EDC WIP(work in progress)

  1. #1

    Ken Erickson EDC WIP(work in progress)

    I had the pleasure of chatting with Steven Lewis yesterday and talked about a knife to be delivered at Blade. Unfortunately I will not be attending Blade this year but said I could have a knife ready for him to be picked up. He had liked the brown paper Micarta EDC that I just finished but asked if I could do a linerless with Turkish blade in place of the Wharncliffe. I was happy to make the changes and as we talked Steven mentioned that perhaps a WIP would be fun.
    Always fun for me to do a WIP!

    So here goes. Please remember that the way I do things are not the only way or best way, just what works for me. Please feel free to ask questions here in the thread as we go or add your comments.

    This knife being a linerless shadow omits certain steps that a bolstered knife would have and certain steps are in a bit different order.

    My patterns that I make up, I already had the frame pattern but added the Turkish clip this morning.

    This shows the relationship of the blade closed in the frame.

    Once I am happy with the pattern I scribe the pattern onto a piece of .113 thick CPM-154 using a 3/32 pivot pin hole as my guide.

    Band sawing out the blade profile.

    This is a picture of my horizontal grinder that works great for profiling the rounded area of the tang.
    Last edited by ken erickson; 03-05-2013 at 12:07 AM.

  2. #2
    A picture of my horizontal grinder.

    The same procedure was used to profile out the backspring. The next step is cutting the frames out of .187 thick paper Micarta using my frame pattern for drill and profile guide.

    Drilling the 3/32 holes in the Micarta using the pattern as a drill guide.

    After the holes are drilled I re-scribe and profile the frames.

    When working with Micarta, G10, carbon fiber I like to use one of these dust masks.

    I use my Bader III with flat platen and rest too profile, keeping nice and square.

    I now have two identical sides, holes drilled.

  3. #3
    This step would be much later in the build had the knife had liners. Even on these linerless shadows I relieve the inside frames so that the sides of the tang do not show scratches.

    I use a rotary table in my knee mill and in the center of the rotary table I made a round slug that has a 3/32 pin centered. This is what I locate the frame on as I do both sides to keep things a mirror image of each other.

    I will use the adjustable wheel on the knee, set at zero, so I can take the same depth of cut on both sides. With this knife I will take a .010 cut.

    The rotary table leaves a nice radius-ed relieved area on the inside of the frames. Super easy to make both sides the same.

    This picture show both frames laying on my horizontal grinder that I use to clean up the inside frames after milling.

  4. #4
    The .113 thick CPM-154 is too thick plus it is not a smooth finish. I surface grind the stock to .095 before punching my mark and cutting the nail pull. This picture shows me using a diamond point wheel dresser , dressing the wheel on my grinder.

    You can see the rough mill finish on the blade and spring.

    Using a micrometer to check my surface grinding progress.

    Blade and spring surface ground flat-true and pit free down to my desired thickness.

    Getting ready to fly cut the nail pull. I will use a bit Dykem to layout the location. This step must be done pre-heat treat when fly cutting.

    When marking the location keep in mind the swedge that will be ground on the blade at a later date.

    This is my fly cutter that I use for nail pulls.

    This is my fixture for holding blades for nail pulls. I turn my spindle by hand, taking about .005 per cut until I am at my desired depth. Depending on the location, style of blade and other factors will determine the depth. From my past experience I know that the depth is deeper than I want as I will be grinding much of the stock away around the nail pull.

    This shows the finished cut, deeper, thus longer than the finished blade.

  5. #5
    Marking the pile side tang with a number "6" which is my system for denoting the blade steel used.

    Marking the mark side tang with my Makers mark.

    Blade and spring, prepped, marked for heat treat.

    Blade and spring wrapped in stainless heat treat foil. I double fold the ends and side with a roller.

    Foil packet into the heat treat furnace.

    Thanks for reading along! That is all until tomorrow when I resume the build.
    Please feel free to add comments, ask questions! This is what makes a wip enjoyable for me.

  6. #6
    member grommit's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Notts Norfok & North East UK
    Thanks so much for this WIP.
    I am in amazement how its all coming together.

  7. #7
    Thank you Ken,

    The Master in his Den at work, love it.

    That surface grinder is a stunner(what a magnet), Love that Peen Ball(not so ball anymore) Hammer- Your work shop has a lot of soul Ken, and surely plenty of stories.

    Quick question re the heat treat, I see the spring and blade are together, do you temper them differently later on? I thought the spring and blade require different different results?

    Ken this fantastic, what a journey.

  8. #8
    that is fantastic thanks for showing us

  9. #9
    Moderator Steven65's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Chillin in the Mother City
    Blog Entries
    WOW Ken you got stuck into making this one quick! The WIP pics are wonderful. It is so great and educational to see the knife take shape. Thanks so much for sharing your process with us.

  10. #10
    What a great thread! Excellent!
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